If Palheiro Gardens were the first gardens you were to visit in Madeira you would be forgiven for thinking they were set on a fair old slope with more than one or two steps. If, however, you’d already been to some of the other well-known gardens on the island you’d agree with the the original owner, the 1st Count of Carvalhal, that this was a pretty flat site, ideal for a garden.

Formerly known as Blandy’s, the Palheiro Gardens in Madeira were set out in the early 1800s. Appearing somewhat English in layout with lots of garden rooms, its location just 300 miles off the coast off the coast of Morocco and 500 metres up the side of an old volcano means that a wide range of plants can be grown - from old English roses and London Planes to Himalayan camellias, American magnolias and redwoods, a Brazilian candelabra tree and Australian proteas.

Cineraria, usually grown as an annual in the UK

Initially the garden was most famous for its collection of cammellias, thought to number in the thousands. There are nowhere near as many now and at the time of my visit had mostly finished flowering.

Cantua buxifolia - the Peruvian magic tree!

Madeira is famous for its mild and sunny climate, described as a year round spring. The gulf stream ensures a steady sea temperature of 18 degrees and the height of the old volcanoes means there is no shortage of rain. Plant growth is rapid and to a sun-starved Englisher visiting in April it can seem a bit wierd to see roses, camellias, crocosmia, asters and wisteria all in flower at the same time. Truly, the holy grail of gardening - all year round colour - can be achieved here.

Clianthus punecius - aka lobster claw or parrot’s bill

There were very few labels on the plants so it’s been fun trying to identify many of the wierd and wonderful plants in the garden. The guide book did give a list of the most interesting plants at the back so I’ve spent a lot of time googling them.

Madeira itself has a rich vein of native species, including this Geranium maderense which can grow up to 1.5m tall. In the UK it is not hardy but grows almost everywhere on Madeira.

Moschosma riparium or Tetradena riparium

Streptosolen jamesonii - the marmalade bush

The Sunken Garden is the most English part of the gardens. The parterre is bisected by paths with a small lily pond in the centre. It’s a good place to park people who don’t fancy the longish downhill walk (and uphill return) to the tea rooms.

Telopea speciosissima - the New South Wales waratah

Auraucaria angustifolia, aka candelabra tree

Wisteria and a lone delphinium in the main garden

The tea rooms are in an old orangery and if you don’t mind the slow service the home made cake is worth the wait. There were china cups, saucers and plates mind, something we found more often than not in Madeiran cafes, along with English spoken everywhere - by tea shop ladies, supermarket shelf-stackers, petrol station cashiers, pharmacists….

Of the three gardens we visited on Madeira this was my favourite. It was the least busy, the cheapest and the most interesting in terms of layout and plant/flower content. It’s also the easiest to get around if you’re not so mobile these days.

Palheiro Gardens - https://www.palheironatureestate.com/palheiro-gardens.html